Easter in Italy

 This has nothing to do with living in Georgia but rather my trip for Easter. It is also a long post so take your time, feel free to come back multiple times to finish reading.

My trip began with a bus from the village into Tbilisi. Kenneth and I met with our friend Clement for dinner at the Indian restaurant that we found the last time we were in Tbilisi. From there Kenneth and I chose to take the bus to the airport, the last one for the night. This saved us 20 lari but we learned that it was not worth it. We squished our way onto the bus and then continued to be squished further and further in. I could barely breathe and I didn’t have to hold onto anything because I was so squished in. All I could think of was those videos in Japan where they have people to shove more people onto the subway than should probably fit. I ended up not feeling so well towards the end of that trip to the airport. I did end up making a run to the bathroom to see my dinner once again and I have a feeling I won’t be eating any Indian food for a long time.

Our flight took off on time. I slept through most of it and then slept some more when we got to Istanbul while we waited for our next flight. We finally arrived in Italy, caught the bus to the train station, found the metro to our hostel and headed out. Unfortunately on the way I was careless and my wallet was stolen. My credit cards and money all gone. I still had my passport and thankfully I was safe but it was so inconvenient. We made it to our hostel, checked in and I emailed my parents to tell them to cancel my cards (fortunately I added them to my account before I left home). I am so very fortunate to have the parents that I do. Kenneth had enough money to pay for both of us for a few days and a few days later they deposited money into Kenneth’s bank account and we withdrew money from the ATM. Great idea and it saved time and money instead of trying to wire me the money. And now a shout out to the great people who saved me lots of frustration:

THANK YOU MOM AND DAD FOR BEING SO AWESOME!!! I LOVE YOU!

After getting that figured out we filed a report at the police station and then headed to the Coliseum for Stations of the Cross. The square in front of the Coliseum was full of people. We were handed service booklets as we went through security. Several people read through the stations, in Italian. There were some responses in Latin. There was also a short commentary on each station done in Italian. The Pope gave a speech and blessing at the end of the service. Even though I didn’t understand everything it was still an amazing experience. We were very hungry at the end and we found some below average pizza to eat on our way “home”. By the way our home for the next week was a tent. Now hold your thoughts for a moment there. It was actually pretty nice. It was a platform tent, with a door that locked and a linoleum-covered floor (not just wood). You could hear your neighbors as if they were in the room with you but other than that it was fine. Transit was an adventure everyday but I’ll get to that later. We crashed in our tent and slept well.

Good Friday at the Coliseum

We woke up early on Holy Saturday (the 7^th) to go to the Pontifical North American College (the office for the North American Catholic church) to pick up our tickets for Sunday Mass in St. Peter’s Square. While we were there we also got tickets to the Easter Vigil service inside of St. Peter’s and an orientation on where to enter, what time to arrive and so on. We weren’t expecting to get tickets to the vigil but we were excited. During the day we saw the Trevi fountain and of course threw in our coins in hope of returning to Rome. We visited the tomb of the Unknown Soldier which just happens to be inside a gigantic monument to WWI. We stopped in at the Pantheon and saw the tomb of Raphael. We walked from there to the Piazza Navona and then on from there to the Campo di Fiori(one of the food markets in Rome). We went into the French church of San' Luigi dei Francesi and saw an original Carvaggio(Baroque painter). Who needs art museums when you can go into churches for free? Around 3PM we made our way to St. Peter’s to stand in line for the vigil. The service wasn’t until 9 and doors wouldn’t open until 7:30 but we knew we needed to arrive early to get good seats. We made friends with the families around us, one from Indiana and the other from New York. We took turns holding place in line so we could go to the bathroom and get food as needed. It was a mad rush once the gates opened and the worst part was the nuns pushed the most. You didn’t even have to walk because the crowd would carry you in. We got seats right on the aisle towards the back of the church so that we could see the Pope up close and personal. The mass was really amazing and I’m so happy that we were able to get tickets. The service was mostly in Latin but they also did readings in Italian, Spanish, English and German. It was amazing to see the light spread from the Paschal candle throughout the Basilica. I just read a translation of the Pope’s homily, (http://www.news.va/en/news/love-is-stronger-than-hate-the-popes-homily-easter) and I wish I had understood that at the time, but better late than never. We left the service exhausted and we tried to get to the metro but took the “scenic route” and then we ended up taking a taxi back to the camping village after walking for far too long and trying to flag down too many full taxis. It was a relief to finally get to sleep after a long day.

It's the Pope! On Easter (well just after midnight on Saturday)

After making the decision that we didn’t need to be close to the front for Easter Mass because we had a good view the night before at the Vigil we slept in a little bit. We waited for the bus outside of the campsite but there were way too many people so we would be very late if we waited. Instead we took the campsites shuttle bus close to Vatican City and walked from there. There were so many people waiting to get into the square so we walked around to the far side(from the metro entrance) to enter the square because the line wasn’t as long over there. We didn’t get a real chair but we sat on the railing of the fountain on the left side of the square if you are facing St. Peter’s. Being that we weren’t in the church the atmosphere was very relaxed. Lots of people talking, kids playing and just general outside behaviors. I’m glad that wasn’t the only service we made it to because it was very distracting. Again readings were done in many languages but Latin being the language of the service and Italian being the language used during the homily. After the service was over the Pope went to the big window and delivered Easter greetings in 60 or so languages. I even heard Georgian. It was a great experience. After that we went to eat and found an average lunch to eat. We walked a lot around the area of St. Peter’s. We walked to the Castle Sant’Angelo and didn’t go inside because the line was so long. We walked from there across the river and just kind of wandered. We found a couple of really cool churches and an awesome gelato shop. (Insert gelato shop name). They had a window to the kitchen where you could watch them make the gelato. We stood there watching the guy make gelato while we ate ours. I was trying chocolate wine and cheese-flavored gelato (that’s two flavors). Good separately but I wouldn’t recommend them together. We continued to walk and walk. We made our way back to the Piazza Navona and on the way we found a church that was going to have a saxophone concert the next evening. We made an early return to the campsite to get a little bit of rest.

The next day, Monday the 9^th, was a national holiday and we decided to go to the Coliseum. Everywhere was just buzzing with people. The line to get in wasn’t too terribly long we probably didn’t wait much more than 30 minutes to get in. I visited the last time I was in Rome but it was still so cool to go in again. They also have a museum like part that explained a lot of the things.

The Coliseum

The Roman Forum

 From there we went to the Roman forum and Palatine area (It’s included in your Coliseum ticket). Here’s a hint if you ever visit Rome: Go to the Forum first, get your ticket and then you can skip the line at the Coliseum because you already have a ticket. Wished I’d known that before. It was interesting to walk where the Romans walked and try to envision what it must have looked like when it was all new. We also saw Caesar’s grave. From there we headed to the church we found the night before for the Saxaphone concert. There were about 10 saxophones. There were some very small ones and some very big ones. I’d never seen those sizes before and I was shocked. The sound was also cool because they weren’t jazz saxophones. I can’t explain the difference but there was one. We finished off our day with a visit to the Piazza del Popolo and the Via del Corso(shopping street).

Tuesday the 10^th was a great adventure. We woke up at 5AM to catch the first bus into the city. The plan was to take the 6:13AM train to Florence. We got to the train station. Bought our tickets (time printed was 6:11AM) and ran to the train. Of course it just had to be on the track farthest away from where you buy your tickets. The whistle was blowing and Kenneth just stepped onto the train when it started to pull away. We rested for a bit and sat next to a nun on the train. The conductor came through and this is where it gets bad. We forgot to validate our tickets. The fine for this is 50 Euros. We told him we didn’t have the money (you have to pay on the spot) and that we just barely caught the train so he just asked for our passports and went on with his business. I asked him what we had to do now and he said just get to Florence. I understood that to mean we would have to go to an office and explain the situation there and hope they were merciful. After the money troubles I had already had this was the last straw for me and I just broke down and cried on the train. Couldn’t help it and couldn’t even enjoy the train ride because I was so upset. We arrived in Florence and made our way to the customer service center. We explained what happened on the train and they told us they didn’t think we had to pay it. The conductor obviously had mercy on us and believed our story. It isn’t a great way to start a day but after something like that happens thing happens things can only get better. I’d like to think that our nun friend (we talked to her some after I finished sobbing) was like a sign to show us everything would be okay. She had actually gotten on the wrong train (the slow one rather than the fast one she had paid for) and we sat next to her. Things happen for a reason.

We started our day at the tourist info office. Busiest place I’ve ever seen. We had to wait in line just to get a map. First stop was Il Duomo. It is a beautiful church on the outside and the inside is cool but not quite as stunning. We walked around a lot. Wandered into several more churches and the next stop was Santa Croce church. It is not only a church, but also a museum and the burial place of such important figures as Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. It’s like a giant cemetery inside a church. There are people buried all over the place. There are people on the walls and in the floors. It’s also a really pretty church but I’m a fan of cemeteries so getting a church and cool type of cemetery (with important dead people) all in one was great. They had some artworks on display in a separate area so you could get up close to things that you normally can’t. No touching of course. It was worth the money to go in. I still say that you don’t need to visit the art museums if you go to enough churches. From that church we went on a search for lunch. After lots of walking past tourist places with food that really didn’t look good I noticed a little shop FULL of people who weren’t speaking English. That’s always a good sign. It was this great little sandwich shop that was run by a father and son. So yummy. It was a gastronomical experience.

Il Duomo

Ponte Vecchio(Old bridge)

After that we walked around some more. Saw the famous Ponte Vecchio, walked past the Palazzo Pitti we found the church of Santo Spirito. Really plain church on the outside, I’d call it Mexican mission style but lots taller, but really beautiful inside. There was also a wooden cross that was carved by Michelangelo when he was only 17. Joys of being in Florence is that all(well most) of the important Italian artists were from here. We walked around some more. Wandered into a random church and were met by a very enthusiastic volunteer guide. He knew a lot and talked very quickly in English about everything. It was really great but the only thing I can remember is that he liked to say masterpiece and probabably. Yes, I wrote it that way on purpose. Just say it out loud and you’ll smile. Prob-a-bably. I wish I could remember the name of the church or where it was but no. We then stopped by another tourist office and asked them where they would go for a cannoli. They said there was a Sicilian gelato and dessert shop on the next street that should be good. It was good, very good. The put parmesan cheese in their filling and it wasn’t too sweet. It was great. We stopped quickly at a grocery store to get dinner for our train ride home and then headed back to Rome. Once in Rome we realized they were doing work on the metro (only after 9PM) so we would have to take a substitute bus to get home. Busses are not an effective substitute for a metro system. It was very crowded and noisy and it often couldn’t stop to let more people on because the bus was full. We also just made it back just in time to catch the last connecting bus to the campsite because it took so much longer than the metro would have. Such a long day, such good sleep.

Our first stop on Wednesday was Vatican City and the Vatican Museums. The line was long but not nearly as long as I remember it being. Another time saving hint if you ever go to Rome: Go to the Vatican City post office and you can buy your entry ticket to the museums so you get to skip the line! Again we didn’t learn this until much later. We took our time and perused all of the galleries that we could. There is just so much art that after a while it becomes very overwhelming. We made our way down the endless length of hallway to finally arrive at the Sistine Chapel. You have to find a way to sit and look, otherwise you just might break your neck. You can only take mental pictures and I have enough to last a lifetime. It’s absolutely worth the wait and the walking down endless hallways to make your way. On the other side of the Sistine chapel they have a modern art exhibit with works by Dali, and several other well-known modern artists whose names I just can’t remember at the moment. We sat down in the cafeteria and enjoyed our bagged lunch before heading off to see the Spanish steps. We also stopped in the AS Roma store to see if there were still tickets for the game tonight. There were and the best part is that women get half price tickets! I counted 136 but supposedly there are 138. We were using today to finish off the list of must see in Rome. On the way to the Hard Rock (not a must see but rather a must purchase) we stumbled across the Capuchin Bone Chapel. The only reason we noticed it was because there was a line. It had been on my list of maybe see if there is time. It was so cool. Again another place you can’t take pictures but you should google it. From there we went to the Basilica St. John in Lateran. Very big and ornate, lots of marble and gold. Just next door to the basilica you can find the Holy Stairs. The stairs were taken from Pilates house in Jerusalem. There are drops of blood on the stairs that are believed to be the blood of Christ. The stairs are marble but have been covered with wood from the walnut tree to protect them. The only thing about these stairs is that you can only go up on your knees. After a moment of consideration I decided to take the challenge. It was a prayerful and focused journey up the 27 (maybe 29) steps. It was worth the effort and it left a mark on me spiritually. It’s the kind of journey a pilgrim should make. After that it was time to head to the soccer game. We took the tram to the stadium, found a little café that was full of people and bought some delicious pizza. We ate it as we walked to the stadium (the 1960 Olympic stadium). We made it through security, walked past the track field, which had awesome marble statues representing all the different sports. The game was great. AS Roma won and that made it even better. 3-1. They were playing Udinese. It was another long day. We took a bus directly from the stadium to our metro station corner where we still had to take another bus to get to the campsite, as usual. 

Vatican Museum Courtyard

Spanish Steps

AS Roma Match

The following day was our last full day in Rome. We started our day with our official tour of the inside of St. Peter’s Basilica. We had already been inside but we weren’t able to look around at much. We walked past the giant bronze doors. We saw Michelangelo’s Pieta and I was still as fascinated by it this time as the first time I saw it. We saw a replica while we were in Florence but nothing can do the real one justice. Then we stopped momentarily at the Chapel of St. Sebastian where Pope John Paul II is now entombed. We walked around the whole Basilica and saw lots of amazing art, many tombs of former Popes and more pilgrims than you can count. We ran into the Pastor of the church from Kenneth’s high school. Just goes to show you the world really isn’t that big. We left the church and just to the right (as you are exiting) there is a new area and it’s all about the history of the bible. They give you a guidebook that you have to return at the end but it explains everything. You start at the beginning and you get to see parts of the Dead Sea scrolls (so cool). Then you get to see lots of old torahs. There is a station that is all about the Gutenberg bible and how movable type changed the way the word of God moved around the world. I even got to print my own page of the bible using a replica of Gutenberg’s machine. The only problem with that was the ink was going to take two days to dry and I still had the rest of the day to walk around Rome. After that we took a bus to the Trastavere neighborhood to find some lunch. We had a nice lunch with wine for 10 euros apiece. First time we splurge on food and it’s our last day in the city. Then we walk from there across the Isola Tiberina (an island in the middle of the Tiber river) until we reach the Vittorio Emmanuel monument once again. We take the metro and find the Episcopal Church in Rome. They just happened to be having a choral concert later than afternoon so we wandered around a bit more and then headed back for the concert. It was nice music but I unfortunately was very tired and having a hard time staying awake. So rather than fall asleep during the concert we left to return to our campsite for the last night.

La Pieta by Michelangelo

My very own page of the Gutenberg bible

We woke up kind of early the next day, packed our things and checked out. We went to the grocery store across the street to get food for the trip home. Then we took the shuttle to the airport and that was that. We left Italy without a problem and arrived back in Georgia just in time to experience our second Easter. Hopefully I’ll go back again someday.